Thursday, September 17, 1998
The walk from the hostel in Nasca to the bus line was quite a distance. Magnus and I were still not 100%, so it took quite some time. Eventually, Annette got us there in one piece.
We were a few minutes early to the terminal. Quite a few travellers were congregating and it was clear that this was a popular route. One of the most interesting guys we met at the terminal was Robert, a Dutch guy on holiday. He was interesting because he had been travelling for over four years by himself through Asia. We compared some stories, talked about how he was able to adjust to the "real world" again, and such.
The ride to Arequipa is an overnight journey of approximately 9 hours. The bus, quite cramped, reeked of pee -- often it's not such a bonus to be on a bus equipped with a toilet. I prayed that I had my runny poo under control...
So, my seat assignment was next to a 19 year old Peruvian girl named Angelica, pronounced Ann-Hell-Ica. Interesting. I got out my blanket/sleeping sack and prepared for a cold and uncomfortable journey. Ann-Hell-Ica was cold. I gave her half my blanket as a gesture of good will. I think she wanted to marry me.
Any slim thought I gave to her proposal quickly dissipated around 3 AM. Seems little Miss Ann-Hell-Ica is a blanket snatcher, a cover-hog, a downright terrible person to sleep next to. I laughed it off and got my share back.
We arrived in Arequipa at around 8. As usual, the terminal was crawling with touts and flycatchers selling tours, hotel accomodations, etc. One very nice girl who spoke quite well said she had a very comfortable colonial house next the ever-present Plaza de Armas. We decided to go take a look.
Just as we were jumping in the cab, Robert came along and asked if he could join us. Sure, no problem. Well, we got to the hotel and turned over negotiations to Magnus who once again played hardball and saved us 2 soles each, US $0.60. The rooms were fantastic. After a quick breakfast, we headed out to see Peru's arguable most beautiful metropolis.
The city itself is surrounded by three 6000+ meter tall, snow peaked volcanoes. The city was founded in 1540 and many of the original buildings remain. It felt about like Europe, I'd have to say.
After a quick tour of the impressive Arequipa and La Compania Catedrals, we decided to hit the main attraction, the Santa Catalina Monastery (Monasterio de Santa Catalina).
The monastery was built in 1580 and is surrounded by very high walls of adobe brick. At one time, almost 450 nuns and servants occupied the compound. Our guide "You pay what you want for me guide" gave us a somewhat lackluster tour where she must have repeated "the rich nuns lived here, the poor nuns lived here" about 200 times, but the grounds were just spectacular. See for yourself.
During lunch, we met a brilliant Brit and Dutch couple, Craig and Melanie. We instantly hit it off and made plans for the evening. We even ran into a group of six Brit girls that we'd met in Pisco a week before -- they too were planning on joining us. Polly, the "ringleader" and the only one I spent much time talking to in Pisco, promised. We all wondered in Polly and the Crackers would show.
I spent the afternoon updated my web page and setting Robert up on email. He was quite fascinated by my computer set up, and like most people who've done what he's done, he couldn't believe that I lug this thing around the world. Sometimes I don't either. I took quite a load of crap from him about it, but it was good-natured fun.
Back at the hotel, the four of us headed out for dinner. We decided on a Chinese place -- $1 for soup and chicken, rice, vegetable stir-fry. Then, off to meet the gang!
And meet the gang we did. We holed up in a quaint little bar called "Blues Bar" and saddled up... Drinks were quite cheap, and I decided to throw a little party for my friends. Soon, Craig and Melanie showed up, then an Irish chap we met named Paul, and then, finally, Polly and one cracker arrived. I took the tab and we decided to go sing Karaoke at around 10.
Dady O's is a scream. The Karaoke lounge was packed with Peruvians, but we somehow scored a primo table for ten. Shots of Absolut were 1 sole, about $US 0.30. I tried to buy the bottle, but they wouldn't let me. Instead, I was poured three full plastic cups, along with three cups of Pepsi. The gang started drinking.
Paul, our first Karaoke participant, bellowed Greatest Love of All -- he was booed out after the first verse and Craig and I took over, much to the pleasure of the crowd. More Vodka. More Coke. Somewhere along the way, I sang I Just Called to Say I Love You -- the Peruvian girls were weeping and screaming... Rock star in a rock-and-roll world. Various other singers happened, as did yet another bottle of Vodka. Then, we all hit the Disco, just down the hall.
We danced, we danced, we danced. Polly and the Cracker (she has a name, Anna) performed amazing feats on the dance floor, as did the drunken-stupor-induced-lip-locked Annette and Robert. Aiii yaaa... At four, we gave up and went back to the hostel, just in time for our trip to Canyon de Colca...