My Kilimanjaro experience began in early January. After a ten hour bus ride from Tanzania's capital, Dar es Salaam, I arrived in Moshi, the city at the base of Africa's highest peak, with my new friends Trent and Tammy. We were planning on climbing Kilimanjaro together.

I met Trent and Tammy in Zanzibar about a week earlier. During my stay on that Paradise Island, I was constantly on the lookout for people to climb with -- these Canadians, a very experienced mountaineer/park ranger and a lifeguard, were instantly likable. We shared a common dream: Uhuru Peak, 19895 feet above the sea.

Upon arrival, we checked into a local hotel, quite charming by third world standards, and began our research. We decided to systematically chose an outfitter, and Trent and I spent the better part of our first day in Moshi doing just that.

It was very easy to find the companies. There are probably 25 legitimate companies in Moshi and another 125 scam operations or "briefcase safaris". We walked outside our hotel that first morning and we were immediately accosted by hordes of flycatchers and touts: "You climb the mountain?" they would ask. With any bit of conversation, that was immediately followed by "We have good price." We dutifully took all the business cards and promised the less annoying individuals that we would come to check them out.

At one point, we were walking between companies when I looked and saw we were being followed by fifteen of these guys -- each one competing for the $600 or so per person that climbing the mountain costs. I was getting a little annoyed, so I turned to the crowd and said loudly and clearly: "If any of you guys are con-artists or scammers, you can go home now. I'm too smart for you, and I can promise you you're wasting your time." All but about three took off immediately.

Meanwhile, back at the hotel, Tammy was busy puking her guts out. Africa has not sat well with her -- she had been sick on and off for most of her three month trip. Trent was about 75% as well -- it was clear we would have to wait at least a few days. So, we waited.

Two days in Moshi seemed like an eternity. Still, we were a group and I was not going to abandon my friends, especially a friend who had tons of mountaineering experience and a medical kit that could successfully accomplish triple bypass surgery. When they both still weren't up for it after that wait, we decided to take a few days on safari before the climb.

On my suggestion, we booked a three day camping safari to pass the time while they recovered. We visited the Serengeti and saw the wildebeest migration, the famous tree-climbing lions of Lake Manyara, and majestic Ngorongora Crater. It was a good three day diversion, to be sure. And, both Trent and Tammy recovered fully. We were ready to climb.

Tree Climbing Lions of Lake Manyara

Wildebeest Migration in the Serengeti

World Heritage Site Ngorangora Crater

Unfortunately, my new friends had a little falling out. Three months of hitchhiking up from Cape Town had frayed nerves and worn patience thin. Tammy decided to skip the climb and head to Nairobi alone. And then there were two.

Day Before...